You know something, Hopetoun Monument is everywhere you drive in East Lothian. It feels no matter…read morewhere you look, it's there. I didn't even know the name of the place until 2 weeks ago, but it is ever-present. What was it for? An ornate lookout post, a fancy dovecote?
Well, I've climbed up Byres Hill, as well as the rickety stairs up to the top of Hopetoun and I can tell you now. It's a monument erected to the 4th Earl of Hopetoun. That 4th Earl, he must have been some dude, especially if you think about lugging up the bricks up that hill.
To get to the monument, you have to find the blooming thing first - I eventually got there via Athelstaneford (if you are coming from Haddington), then having found it on my horizon, just kept following the roads until I stumbled across the car park. Let it be known, this place is not well signposted. Nor maintained. At least one path is too overgrown to try to navigate, so it's the steep up and down option for all.
A soggy muddy path semi-overgrown up a steep incline means that for some, this will be an unsuccessful trip. The last few hundred metres are over rugged, rocky ground. By then, if you are like unhealthy me, you will be wheezing like a woman twice your age and wondering why you didn't go to the gym more often. But, once you get to the top, you are faced with the enormity of the monument (now now, no smutty puns), and the views that stretch from Fife over to the Lammermuir hills. It is a view like no other.
If you are feeling brave, climb the 132 stairs (of varying quality) up to the top. There is a warning at the car park that you need a torch - in fairness, that instead of the sunglasses i was wearing would have been more useful, as small incisions into the wall left pockets of like for your eyes to grab hold of, but ultimately there were gaps of darkness where you just had to trust in yourself. Just as well, as my sunnies were prescription and unfortunately being blind as a bat still is only a metaphor in my case. But again, you are definitely rewarded for the burning thighs and the pressure in your chest because what you get when you are arrive is the final flourish. No trees, no nothing stand in your way and with realtively clear blue skies, there was almost no limit to what can be seen. There are placards at the top to give you an idea of what you are looking at, but for me, watching the shadows of clouds trail by on the fields below, staring out to Fife and to the Lomond Hills beyond, listening to the occasional noisy car far far far away, here is somewhere where you can find peace, both inner and outer.
