Kemeralti is one of the must-see places in Izmir. Its labyrinthine lanes are packed full of shops of almost any kind. Even on a quiet day, it's pretty crowded and walking around tends to be in slow motion, because of the browsing masses of shoppers, ambling tiredly in front of you.
It was under circumstances like these that I first discovered this peaceful oasis far enough from the crowd. Now it's not a Michelin-starred anything; it is a modest cafe, with welcoming staff, comfortable seating, tea, coffee or -- for me, in summer, at least -- ice-cold beer served in an ice-cold glass.
They have the hubble-bubble/sheesha/narghile, naturally. And fans when it's hot, and tarpaulins above protect one from the blazing summer sun, and from those winter Mediterranean rains.
It's a real go-to spot, set in an ancient and attractive complex of former workshops.
Tip: a few less interesting cafes that line the passageway before you reach the square that Lesmire Cafe calls home feature smiling waiters that will try to seize your custom. Smile and keep going: it's the first, outdoor (mostly) cafe on your right as you enter the larger square. read more
