Lavender Ridge is the softer, more intimate half of a tasting room duo in Calaveras County's Sierra Foothills AVA that also includes Coppermine in nearby Vallecito, just off of CA-4, the main access route into Murphys from the Stockton/Central Valley side of the state. It is the brainchild of a talented local winemaker, Rich G., who along with his wife, Siri, help to make the Murphys wine scene a bit more diverse, varietally-speaking, than it otherwise might be. That's because of their interest in Rhone and Bordeaux grapes, and because both places use creative food and wine pairing options to amp up the sensory overload potential of one's visit.
This is the more historic of the two tasting rooms - a quaint but sturdy-looking stone building filled to its high-beamed ceiling with drying lavender bunches, lavender-scented food and beauty products, and one of the nicest cheese selections that you're likely to find outside of your nearby Whole Foods, both in terms of European imports and northern Californian, specialities like Cowgirl Creamery of Marin, Vella of Sonoma, and Cypress Grove of Humboldt counties.
Although it is likely an intentional design and marketing decision, Lavender Ridge is the more "feminine" tasting room, including beautiful bottle art that allows the colors of the wine to show through the light and dark glass. Coppermine, with its sleek, bullet-like bottles sporting deeper hues and less florid font styles, seems more masculine in make-up. It may make sense to separate the wine styles like this, but it also has the downside of breaking up the winemaker's limited supply of available wines into two smaller halves. Some of our tasting room friends, for example, only like to drink white wines, while others are drawn exclusively to reds, and they would have to visit both places back-to-back to have their whistles wettted, so to speak, since you can't combine the wines into a personalized tasting experience.
What you will get if you come here is a well-balanced lineup of about 6 wines and 3-4 cheese pairings, made up of estate vineyard white and red blends (Cote du Calaveras - a traditional southern Rhone GSM blend - and CdC Blanc, using Rousanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc grapes), and single varietals sourced from vineyards in Calaveras, El Dorado, and Amador counties, which (along with Placer County) collectively comprise the Sierra Foothills AVA. The exceptions to the Rhone-driven rule - red wines made from Carignane and Petite Sirah - are in some senses more intriguing than the classic Cote bottlings: deeper, denser, more brooding in fleshy fruit and tannic structure. Equally compelling is a 2014 Clondaire Vineyard Grenache Blanc fermented on its lees in a concrete egg, which allows for a constant circulation of the wine while it's being made and adds some real elegance and layered depth to the finished product.
The other standout wine for us on a recent weekday visit was a 2014 Mansfield Vineyard Grenache from El Dorado County, really lush and inviting fruit, floral, and mineral notes, and very enjoyable after only 9 months of oak barrel aging - about half of the usual time in barrel used with other reds on offer. Partially this is a supply-and-demand thing, putting the 2014s into circulation earlier than usual, but for whatever reason, we simply liked the 2014s better than the other vintage years poured that day. The dry conditions helped to consolidate flavors in smaller crop yields, while also softening the tannins and keeping ripeness and alcohol levels in the low 14% range, which preserved more of the aromatics of the Grenache and Grenache Blanc grapes. Dialing back the power potential of the wines kept the delicate levels of acid and fragrance intact and simply made for more balanced mouthfeel and finishes than a higher octane offering would have done, where the fruit simply steals the show at the expense of its secondary tasting notes.
If you like Tablas Creek wines from Westside Paso Robles, or have been to Los Olivos lately to see what Rhone Rangers like Larry S. at Tercero are doing with single vineyard bottlings of Grenache Blanc, Grenache, and Mourvedre, then it makes perfect sense to come here to see how these very appealing wines are made by one of Calaveras County's top-notch winemakers. The added benefits of getting cheese and lavender products as gifts only makes the whole experience that much more of a standout in a town that definitely punches (or perhaps jumps) well above its weight when it comes to exploring the boundaries of new Californian winemaking. If you're sick of the traffic and high tasting fees in Napa and Healdsburg, you really owe it to yourself to make the drive out to Murphys to see what the men and women of Calaveras County have got cooking up in their small-scale but high-end wineries and tasting rooms. read more