I walked into Fonda Margarita with a chip on my shoulder. Everyone was chirping me talking about…read more"Bro is PETRIFIED to leave Roma Norte..." or "You're only hitting the tourist spots like the little weasel you are..." Putting my ego and the fact that I literally am a tourist aside, it was a fair criticism.
I responded to these and asked for a recs, and 8/10 of them said I HAD to go to Fonda Margarita.
I arrived early the next day, and boy were they right. I walked in and took a seat among strangers at one of the metal tables with live music being played directly behind us. In the best way possible, I felt like I was on a movie set.
Fonda Margarita is one of the only places I've been that feels like it has been untouched by the all-encompassing river of time. They are cooking the guisados in huge clay pots, the staff takes your order with pen and paper, there are no QR code menus, no AI marketing, etc.
I was the only one who didn't speak Spanish at the table (obviously), and the whole group cheered me on as I ordered in my broken Spanish. From there, we communicated by passing the phone back and forth with google translate as they asked where I'm from, how long I'm in town, and how I heard about the restaurant. I asked them the same questions back while also asking for recommendations of other local spots to hit.
One lady across from me, who was at least in her 80s, told me she had been coming here since she was 17 years old and it hasn't changed at all. You gotta respect the OGs.
In similar fashion to the people, the food was SENSATIONAL. I ordered their famous frijoles con huevo, chilaquiles with chicken, and a chicharon guisado.
I'll be the first to admit the frijoles con huevo fails the eye test on every level. It looks like a turd. I was nervous for that first bite, but my tastebuds EXPLODED in exaltation. It's literally just refried beans and eggs cooked in lard, so I don't know how it could be that delicious. The lady next to me leaned in and said "This only here. Nowhere else in Mexico. Only here."
The chilaquilas were draped in salsa verde with a HUGE piece of chicken on top. Head and shoulders the best chilaquiles I've ever had. They changed me.
I'll be honest, the chicharron guisado wasn't my favorite but I was so full by the time I got to it. I don't think it got a fair shake.
It makes me so happy to know that places like this still exist. In Fonda Margarita, time stands still. Great food, better people, FONDA MARGARITA!
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