This beautiful restaurant is elegant, civilized and right next door to the Pope's Palace so Pope…read moreClement V, no doubt, would pop over with a few buds to be treated like he was, well...the Pope. I know I was.
The decor is all hushed tones just like the other diners conversation. Everyone is catered to, too in an atmosphere of the Old World injected with 50 cc's of modernity.
So, settle back with your flute of Roderer Champagne Brut Premier Kir Royale and let the kitchen have it's way with you.
The Staff: All subtle attention to duty and detail. Our first server had only a little timid English, so the manager tapped his left hand and went to the Bull Pen. Out trotted Gaeton who was energetic, patient, charming, genuinely warm, totally professional with a quick smile and dash of sly sophisticated humor.
You want wine? The Wine List required an engine hoist to heave it on the table. Lift with your legs when they set it down near by. Or, better, ask the Somm to make it all happen for you. You will not get a bota bag and instructions to hold it over your head and squeeze. That was easy, wasn't it and now you're all perfectly paired up better than being on e-Harmony.
The Food: You pick. There was a local Tomato Taster which was not all vegetarian and a Palace Menu which had some vegetarian courses.
While you're perusing the menu like the Pope in the Pulpit, an Amuse-Bouche arrives. Mullet Pate, Goat Cheese Gougere (ask for a bucket of those), and a Fennel Mousse with Crispy Prosciutto as light as a Trump policy.
Then comes the bottomless basket of Country French Bread, Chia Bread (not suitable for making a Macron Chia Pet), and some unique Tomato Bread. By now you're full...but wait there's more.
Here comes an Artichoke Panna Cotta with Mullet Roe and a Rice Chip which made me flip with joy.
Next there was a wholesome healthy wedge of Fois Gras as livery as your father's forearm and loveringly (as Trump might say) paired with a lovely late harvest Vigonier.
A Seabass swam to the table. Served with Asparagus, it was stellar and neither Cimarusti nor Ripert could find anything negative to say about this dish, nor could they have cooked it any better. The fish came with pickled Pearl Onions which were so perfect they might have been plastic. Naw...they were real, and gone in 60 seconds along with the Baby Beet Leaves.
A Duck Supreme did a fly-by. The plate had a sausage like Shaquille's ring finger and a nice slice of breast. Often duck is a fatty, greasy, chewy attempt, closer to a Gummy Bear or an Adiddas Court Shoe but in Chef Sevin's capable hands it is regal and sublime.
Then the pace slowed thankfully. Like 7th inning stretch it is time to loosen your belt, and unbuckle those pantaloons that sorta fit before you left home. Get ready because the Cheese is heading your way like a runaway freight train.
Livarot (aka Colonel), Cure Natais, Trappes, Vieux Chevre Carles, Salers, Munster (not the Kroger Deli stuff, either), Pouligny Saint Pioole, Marroiffes, for those of you who know your cheeses, read it and weep. Aren't these all in your fridge at home ready when you are?
Finally, just when you think that the match is over and you've survived, if barely...dessert service begins.
Why not have some Pineapple, Mango Coconut Foam in Mint Pearls, won't you?
Or, how about some Chocolate Surprise in Mexican Vanilla with Vanilla Ice Cream, Chocolate Wafers and Vanilla Cream? Just ask for the Panna Cotta Groiseille and the kitchen will know that you know what the kitchen knows.
And only the real ballers will be able to manage the Sour Raspberry Marshmallows, Mini-Chocolate Hazelnut Cups, and Lemon Macronettes.
Check please and stretcher bearers...stat.
