Le Moulin à Huile, Saturday May 22nd. All palates - Nordiste, Provencal, British and luk krueng…read moreThai, young and ... not so young - captivated by the subtle, harmonious flavours, the uninterrupted gastronomic quality throughout our meal, as we savoured each of the dishes on the 3+3+3 choice 33€ lunchtime menu.
Le Moulin was formerly cheffed by Robert Bardot, Meilleur Ouvrier de France 1976, double Michelin-starred at Le Flambard in Lille followed by a star at Le Moulin à Huile. He has been a hard act to follow after he stepped from the kitchen for the very last time in 2014, 79 years old. It didn't quite work out for the new owners between 2014 and 2019, before chefs Amandine and Jérôme Blanchet took up the challenge.
Then months after their arrival in Vaison, Covid arrived on the scene, devastating the restaurant industry. Since spring 2020 it's been a stop-start affair between lockdowns, the most recent closure lasting a full six and a half months.
Yet for Saturday's lunch, a day after reopening, Amandine and Jérôme have hit the boards running. We had some delicious meals here prior to the last Covid-enforced shutdown, and here they have once again shown themselves to be worthy successors to the Bardot reign. Even better than I remembered.
Two tasty amuse-bouche appetisers, followed by a delectable deconstructed Pissaladière 'tart' with red mullet, Entrechaux saffron-scented rouille sauce, fennel and a bouillabaisse jus. Dining partners had the two alternative entree options - the first, a slow-cooked organic egg on brioche toast, with local white asparagus and a choron (tomato-flavoured Bearnaise) sauce. Daughter chose the third entree, a Le Puy lentil salad with a traditional whole grain mustard, and a square of duck confit.
Main courses each sampled - the baked monkfish, accompanied by a typical Basque 'piperade' side of onion, green pepper and tomato with chorizo, polenta chips and Nyons olives, creamed piquillo pepper. Deluscious. For the youngster, braised Provencal lamb shoulder and a pink-grilled chop on a bed of Dauphine potato straws, with an onion confit jus. Demolished. Two of us had chosen the open ravioli of chicken quenelle, veal sweetbreads and green asparagus in a supreme sauce, generously decorated with slivers of summer truffle. Delightful.
A very good selection of cheeses from Vaison's Lou Vanestiou shop to conclude, while the ladies went for the sweet desserts - the bowl of Crestet strawberries and elderberry in a pistachio cream with a crumbly almond streusel topping, the Royal chocolate dacquoise and mousse wrapped in a crunchy praline, with vanilla ice. Petit fours and a quality coffee, and we were ready to roll. Literally.
33€ for such a high standard of cuisine sourced from quality, fresh, locally-produced seasonal ingredients, is a total bargain.
