Corte is a bit scruffy and in the high season most likely is over crowded with tourists gaping at the magnificent surrounding scenery. Given the over valuation of the euro vis a vis the dollar we stick to two star hotels and try to dine out only once a day in medium priced places. So what the French call "rapport qualite/prix" is uppermost in our minds. If you're like us, stay away from the tourist traps along Cours Paoli and try l'Oliveraie (a long but not too long walk and a very short drive from the center). Focus in on Corsican specialties(beignets: deep fried puffs filled with brocciu [a Corsican version of ricotta] or other things (leeks in my case). I had a magnificent lamb dish with a honey-based sauce; my wife had roast veal (a bit too roasted). Nice welcome, good service, rural feeling. the bill, with an AOC wine came to 55 euros.
More general advice: if you come to Corsica and are reasonably fit, do some of the mountain hikes: in late April snow was on all the higher peaks, which are geologically new granite cliffs, covered with maquis on the lowest slopes, oaks and chestnut trees higher up and magnificent pine forests above 3000 feet. Everywhere below the tree line you come across the ruined stone walls, chapels and houses left by a tough peasantry.Near Corte: we did the Tavignano Valley and Cascade des Anglais treks, and with more time would have done the Restonica Valley. Trails are well marked. read more
