Rochester is one of England's oldest and most charming cathedrals, but its modern tranquillity…read morebelies a turbulent past. It's an hour from London by train and makes for an easy half day visit.
History
The diocese of Rochester was founded in 604AD (the same year as London) by St Augustine of Canterbury, with St Justus as its first bishop: only Canterbury is older. The first cathedral, about which little is known, was built on land donated by the Saxon King, Ethelbert.
After the Norman conquest, a Priory dedicated to St Andrew was built next to the cathedral, by the first Norman Bishop, Gundulf. Evidently an energetic man, as well as supervising the building of Rochester Castle and the original Tower of London, he also set about rebuilding the cathedral in 1083, and the new church was dedicated in 1130. Less than seven years later, however, a fire damaged the cathedral, and work began to rebuild it in the new Gothic style around 1180, although only the Quire was completed, in 1227.
In the meantime, a Scottish baker living in the area, one William of Perth, was murdered nearby in 1201. He was buried in the cathedral and shortly afterwards, miracles were reported at his tomb. Thus Rochester became a great place of pilgrimage.
This help fund further building: the transepts were built around 1240-60; in 1340, these were vaulted, the tower raised and a spire added; in 1440 a new clerestory was added to the nave and the west window replaced; and finally in 1490 a Perpendicular Lady Chapel added. The cathedral was fortunate in having a largely sympathetic restoration by George Gilbert Scott.
As well as the fire, the cathedral endured being sacked by King John in 1215, and desecrated by Simon de Montfort's army in 1264 during the conflict with Henry III. The adjacent priory of St Andrew was dissolved in 1540 and the cathedral was again damaged in 1642 by Cromwell's troops during the English Civil War.
The church
The location, adjacent to the great Norman castle at Rochster, is one of England's most picturesque. Part of the curtain wall of the precinct survives, as well as three gatehouses, and some interesting but more limited remains from the priory.
The cathedral is best entered from the west entrance: this way you can appreciate the 12th Century west front, with its elaborately decorated West Door, the only example of a high Romanesque front surviving in England. The great west window dates from 1440 and is in the Perpendicular Gothic style.
This brings you into the Norman nave built by Gundulf, in many ways the highlight of the cathedral: its arcades and triforium are an excellent example of the early Norman Romanesque style, alive with dog-tooth and zig-zag decoration and chequerboard reliefs.
The Lady Chapel on the south side is the 'newest' part of the cathedral, completed in Perpendicular gothic in 1492.
The north transept and the enclosed Quire portrays the change to the Gothic style, and is a good example of the 'Early English period. Beyond, the Quire Transepts and the Sanctuary at the East End are more transitional in style, but with many of the features of Early English Gothic.
The steps to the south of the Quire lead to the crypt below, one of the best preserved in England, with elements from both the original Norman crypt and later Early English work (1180-1260). On the north side of the Quire is a staircase with steps worn by pilgrims visiting William of Perth's tomb, now covered by wooden treads.
Furnishings include memorials to various bishops, the best preserved being that of John de Sheppey, still with its mediaeval colouring; a memorial to Charles Dickens; and the wonderfully preserved Chapter doorway built by Bishop Hamo de Hythe in 1340; the oldest and best preserved mediaeval church pavement in the UK; the fine 14th Century Sedilia; and, in the Quire, the remains of the UK's oldest choir stalls, dating from 1227, surrounded by the intact (though heavily restored) decorative wall scheme from 1350.
Outside, the former priory cloister to the south is now a peaceful garden and has some attractive Romanesque blind arcading.
Practicalities
The cathedral has a small shop at the west end, open Mon-Sat 10-16.30. Behind the East End are tea rooms open from Mon-Sat 8.30-16.30, serving breakfast, lunch and afternoon teas and light refreshments.
Wheelchair access is via the North Transept door. There is a lift from the nave to the quire, and there is a disabled toilet in the tea rooms (not open Sundays). The crypt and part of the presbytery have no wheelchair access. There are ladies' and gents' toilets off the cloister garden.
There are a limited number of disabled parking spaces by the North Transept, otherwise the nearest car parking is off the adjacent High Street. The railway station is a 10-15 minute walk.
