Beautiful once now a shabby tourist spot.
I first visited Holbox 17 years ago. boyfriend and I decided to escape SF and all the burdens of the city. At the time it was a 300 person fishing village. You flew into Cancun, took an epic bus journey to a long boat ride. We spent three months in a little cinder block hut with a hammock, a bed and a hot plate. It was either this or a thatch palapa hut. This was the less buggy option.
Every night the pan dulce truck drove around delivering fresh baked treats. We bought tortillas from the local place and a guy named Elvis took us fishing and taught us how to free dive and set lobster traps.
There was plenty of delicious food at night for a few pesos you could hit up a panuchos or salbutes stand. On our walk home you would get sometimes encounter wasted locals careening home. It was hilarious if only because the one that was less drunk would point to the other and say, "El es Cubano!"
The highlight of the trip was swimming in the full moon ocean on NYE. The whole three months I spent about $500.
Fast forward 13 years and the sleepy fishing village resembles Bombay. It's crowded, people selling you things. You still need to fly, ride and ferry to the island but it seems like all of California has discovers Holbox.
We stayed at a place that promised an ocean view. I guess they counted the thin crack of light through the shabby thatch of window overlooking the pool that overlooks the ocean.
We moved to the hotel next door and forked over $500 a night. It was worth it. The place was lovely - clawfooted bath, clean linens, robes, cocktails -except when we checked in the night manager was sleeping in the bed. He cleared out and the stay was redeemed. While sitting at the pool the umbrella was swept up in the wind and harpooned me in my stomach. No blood, just bruising. My point in sharing is that the safety precautions we take for granted are missing here. Relax at your own risk.
My first Holbox remains a lovely memory. I won't go back to this one.
It's sad because it lost the pristine tropical island beauty and in its stead swapped it for a dingy, confused, tourist trap lacking top shelf amenities, with a top shelf price.
Holbox - might be worth the trip if you live in Mexico or SoCal. Otherwise, not worth time, money or effort. read more