I found this museum totally by accident. I'm not a huge fan of clocks, but I love stained glass, and the collection here is impressive. You will need at least 2 hours, depending on how much you love clocks and stained glass. I rushed through the clocks and peeked at the paintings by the restaurant and took most of 90 minutes. If you're not passionate about one or the other, you're unlikely to pay the $17 admission (well worth it if you are).
The "glass" of the museum's title is 19th century American stained glass. The windows are sort of packed together; they're mostly hung at a level where you could reach out and touch them - which in fact the docents encourage you to do! The only other collection I've seen with windows at visitors' level was the collection at Navy Pier, and the pieces there were behind glass - here you're encouraged to feel the draping, the nobbly glass, the herringbone glass - and I don't remember seeing the kind of layering I saw here (up to three layers of glass in some of the windows). The stained glass collection is two large rooms - one rather labyrinthine dedicated to the windows; one room dedicated to Tiffany himself. The museum commissioned examples of American versus European-style stained glass, and another set of windows done in 1, 2 and 3 layers, which was fascinating, and the explanatory panels include both history, technique, and information on which Bible story the windows are from.
A fine collection of Tiffany windows; John LaFarge; Frederick Lamb, and an artist I'd never heard of, Mary Tillinghast, with wonderful deep colors. There's one Prairie School window (unsure if it was a Wright; unlabeled) and a few skylights from the old Auditorium theater downtown. There's also a giant Tiffany window of a Madonna and child with the painting it's based on and the original photographs, and another giant Tillinghast. There is a small display window of arts-and-crafts furniture designed by Tiffany as part of the furnishings for an entire house (including two lamps); some of his watercolors; a few mosaics; a sample panel traveling salesmen used to sell the famous lamps; and even a setting of silver flatware by the other Tiffany.
That said, the heart of this collection is the clocks. When climbing the stairs, look up: the building's topped with a zodiac-themed stained glass dome. Turn left at the top of the stairs and start with the reproduction of the large mechanical clock, or you'll go through the collection backwards. The oldest clocks here mostly date back to about 1500, though there is a sundial from Egyptian times. As I said, not a big clock fan, but the Japanese clocks (beautiful and apparently with 9 hours instead of 12) were fascinating; the French industrial clocks (shaped like trains; steam engines; automobiles) very interesting; and there's a giant collection of paste-encrusted Chinese clocks with automata and one plain automaton (a boy pulling a fish out of a net), in addition to a collection of navigational tools (clock-ish; another stained glass dome); "skeleton" clocks with the works exposed; and the sort of fancy porcelain bisque clocks one might expect. There aren't a lot of "mystere" clocks (where one is left wondering where on earth the mechanism is hidden - come to think of it, I only saw maybe one art deco clock; not the owner's period, I guess) but the collection features just about everything else, including several rather prosaic vitrines of pocket watches from various local factories (Elgin!) and some interesting old advertisements praising the watches' durability.
The docent in the gift shop was passionate about the collection and gave me a little mini-tour of the stained glass. It's a nice little gift shop, with several books on Tiffany's art, some jewelry, art-print umbrellas, coloring books... (Many of the items in the gift shop appear to be from the Met's gift collection.) With the Driehaus Navy Pier exhibit closed, probably the finest visitable collection of stained glass in Chicago. A world-class little museum. read more