After a family wedding in Boston-Cambridge, my wife and I took a "decompression trip" on our way back home to Asheville, NC. We decided to visit two of the most famous houses of the 20th century, Philip Johnson's Modernist Glass House in New Canaan, Conn., and Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater. (We also ended up visiting Kentuck Knob, Wright's Usonian house a few miles from Fallingwater.)
To put this review in context, I should say that we have visited a number of other Wright buildings, including of course the Guggenheim, Taliesin West in Arizona, the Florida Southern University buildings, Wright's studio and home in Oak Park, Ill., plus I have seen a number of Wright houses in Buffalo and elsewhere. I'm not an expert on architecture, but I have read several biographies and other books on Wright.
Anyway, rather than trying to critique what is arguably the most famous house of the 20th century, I'm sharing what surprised me about the house, grounds and the tour:
* First, and this is totally stupid of me because I've seen dozens of photos of Fallingwater and read much about its construction, on first approaching the house on the tour I was surprised that the house and the decks are of reinforced concrete, painted an earthy tan color. For some reason I had it in my mind that the decks were faced with wooden boards and stone.
* I was surprised by the beauty of the natural setting. Again, I shouldn't have been, but the beauty of the cascading falls, the river and the rhododendron and laurel around the house exceeded my expectations.
* I was surprised by the popularity of the house. Last year more than 186,000 people toured it, on busy days more than a thousand people come to see it, and fmore than five million have toured since it was acquired by the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy in 1963. The tours are run very smoothly, and the visitor center is nicely designed, but it is still a busy place.
* I was pleasantly surprised by how much of the original furnishings remain with the house. The Kaufmann family -- a prosperous Pittsburgh family that operated a famed department store -- that donated the house to the Conservancy also donated all of the furnishings, both those designed by Wright and those selected by the family, down to the silverware and two Diego Rivera paintings. Unfortunately, several Frida Kahlo paintings were sold, I believe by a Kaufmann family member before the donation.
* Knowing Wright's penchant for compressed space and low ceilings, I was surprised by the size and amount of public space at Fallingwater. This is especially noticeable on the main level, where the living room and decks are large and could easily handle the parties that the Kaufmanns entertained in the 1940s and 50s at their weekend retreat. The living room fireplace is huge, and unlike at Kentuck Knob where fireplaces had to be used sparingly due to the use of quarried stone that could not stand up to heat, the Fallingwater fireplace interiors have fire brick facings, so the fireplaces were used frequently.
* I was surprised that the tour guides accept, and even quietly solicit, tips. At neither Kentucky Knob nor the Glass House did the guides expect tips, and if memory serves that was the case also at the other Wright sites we've visited. In general, although it's done tastefully, there is a bit of commercialization at the site -- from the short film at the end that asks for donations to the Western Pennsylvania Conservancy to an $18 Cuban sandwich in the café. On the other hand, we paid only $30 each for the tour, a better value than the tours at either Kentucky Knob ($25) or $52 for the Glass House. And of course the Conservancy does much good work, including having protected more than 255,000 acres of natural land in Pennsylvania. Our tour guide also was very good, with an informative yet unscripted presentation.
* I was a little surprised about the walk back to the visitor center after touring the house. You can either take the long route, of nearly a mile with up to an 8-degree inclines, or a shorter route via a series of terraced steps, some fairly steep. For those with mobility challenges, there is the option of riding back in a vehicle. All in all, however, with more than 100 steps in the house and quite a bit of walking to and from the house, the tour is at least a mild work-out.
* Finally, I was surprised that the well-known leaks that have plagued the structure since it was built were not, as I had thought, around glass but rather through the reinforced concrete decks and roofs. Of course, it is well known that Wright had many disagreements with the Kaufmanns and the contractors over the design and engineering of the house. Much work has had to be done to reinforce the sagging decks and to counter the mold problem due to the site over the river.
To sum up, it was a privilege to see and tour this master work of organic architecture. read more