We had a fabulous experience with 4 day hike with Expediciones Sierra Norte. The cabanas far exceed anything I have ever experienced on trails in the States, done right luxurious by hiking standards. Beautifully sited with great views, super clean, tiled floors with lovely hot showers and fires every night in April. The hikes are demanding but gorgeous with some amazing views. Temescal, trout dinner and pulque all highly recommended.
Note- altitude sickness is real. If you live at sea level I highly recommend a couple of days at Mexico City altitude before venturing to the Highlands.
Second note- I can't imagine this would ever happen again but the cabana at relatively low altitude Altamira (sp?) had just been fumigated for pine beetles in the rafters, sparking a bad reaction for chemically sensitive me but not for anyone else. Staff was apologetic and accommodating- we wound up spending the night in the Temescal room. If you are similarly sensitive and traveling to the lower altitude villages at the beginning of April, you might just want to check in about this. read more