Brisk and damp on a November afternoon, it took me a few turns before I finally found my way into…read morethe courtyard of Cafe Letterario. It was well worth the walk from the center of the city. The outdoor space was largely, though not entirely, abandoned given the weather, but even with a large group inside there were plenty of tables to be had. For a former prison, Cafe Letterario feels warm and intimate. The space is large, with wood throughout and walks the line between restaurant, cafe, and book repository perfectly.
The menu is diverse and affordable. Offerings are relatively casual even though they are listed in the traditional primi, secondi fashion. I found the portions were more than ample, more than I could eat in fact. I ordered the tagliatelle with fagioli (thick, long noodles in a sort of thick tomato, carrot, and white bean soup) and a side of the spinach. Both were really delicious and well priced considering the large portions. I found the waiter service polite and attentive.
Pro tips:
1) As you walk in you will see a counter with a register and signboard, don't go over here to order if you are taking table service, this is where you go to pay afterward.
2) The bread is actually free here. If you're out all day traveling like I was, don't be too ashamed to pocket it.
3) They are familiar with "prendere via" or takeaway here, so if you over order like I did they will wrap up your meal for you. They were especially kind to wrap my soupy tagliatelle up like For Knox so it wouldn't spill in my bag. Travelled half a day with it and no leaks!
4) Free wifi and scattered plugs to charge up with!
