Visiting this bridge was part of a longer drive we took through the Apuan Alps in Tuscany. When…read moreyou come upon it is quite eye-catching, even astonishing because of it's interesting slope, graceful curves and beautiful construction.
This "Bridge of Maddalena"...named after Mary Magdalene of Biblical fame, is also known as Ponte del Diavolo or "The Devil's Bridge". It crosses the Serchio River near the town of Borgo a Mozzano in the province of Lucca.
The bridge was built in the 12th century and it may have been commissioned by the Countess Matilda of Tuscany although this is uncertain. Historically, the bridge became an important method of crossing the river on the Via Francigena which was an early medieval road to Rome for people coming from France usually as a pilgrimage route.
We thought the bridge was stunning to behold and found what history there is of it to be fascinating. As a popular legend of the bridge goes there were problems with its construction. It is said that the master builder (il capomastro) was frustrated by innumerable (12th century type) construction delays and therefore he made a pact with the devil. As the story goes, the devil told the capomastro that he would build the bridge for him over night but in return the devil wanted the soul of the first person to cross the bridge. The builder agreed to these terms but on the eve of the bridge's opening, he was filled with guilt and went to see his priest. The priest thought of a way to thwart the devil and so a dog was sent to cross the bridge early on "opening day". The devil was so angry at being tricked it is said that he threw himself and this poor dog into the Serchio river. People today say that at night you can on occasion still hear the howling of the poor dog.
Whatever you want to call this bridge...Maddalena or Diavolo, it is well worth the drive to see it. Along the way you will see mountains and lush, verdant countryside so it is a drive very much worth taking.
The entire area feels ancient and magical as does so much of Italy to me especially when you allow yourself to get off the beaten track.