Santa Maria Maggiore may just be the most forgettable church in Florence. Most tourists will just…read morewalk by this church. We visited because I was interested in the hidden secret (below). It is, after all, one of Florence's oldest churches (some say the oldest). The church has an unfinished exterior. We enjoyed the peace and quiet during our visit.
There is a hidden secret on the outside of the church. It is about a "petrified woman" known as "Berta," whose head comes out in a disquieting way from the stones of the walls of the church. You really have to look for it on the Via Cerretani. The story goes that on September 16, 1327, Cecco d'Ascoli, a doctor, astrologer and teacher, was being led to execution after predicting that the future queen of Naples would be 'inclined to lust'--an accurate prophecy as it turned out: (Joanna I had four husbands, one of whom she killed, and she was suffocated to death in her own bed.) As Ascoli was being marched to the bonfire on which he would be burned, crowds poured out into the street to shout and jeer at the poor man. When he passed in front of the church, he begged the crowd for a little water for his parched throat. Berta, watching from a window in the bell tower, shouted cruelly, 'He's a wizard! If he drinks he shall not burn!' Ascoli, in response to the woman's meanness, cursed her, saying, 'And you shall never again lift up your head from that place!' To this day, her petrified head can be seen on the wall of the tower, waiting to be freed from the curse.