I was surprised when Yelp requested a review of the Istanbul Culinary Academy because I know of…read moreYelp only within the US. I dearly love the ICA and will look for my food pictures to post. But I also want to acknowledge Armaggan's upstairs restaurant. As with all of Armaggan, the restaurant is exquisite. Architecturally, its interpretation of traditional stylistic themes is informed, refined and minimalist, but with richness in materials and lighting--especially in galleries displaying different categories of objects and inside the restaurant and on its innovative terrace. It is not pastiche or parody. Staff told me that it is run by a family who cares about and studies Turkish history and culture. Today, I am reminded by Yelp that I had not finished typing this review from 2 years ago. I will post it anon. The longer I have been away from Istanbul the more I miss its cosmopolitan people and my many favorite spots there. Armaggan would be unique in any of the world's great cities. But even in a place where almost everything (except pork and alcohol) has been examined, interpreted, improved and refined over the centuries Armaggan still stands out. Just a few steps from the Grand Bazaar, on a quiet and pretty street, is the pristine edifice of polished beige stone and crystal clear glass. It resembles a large private vault, but is an emporium of Turkish culture. The finest contemporary arts and crafts are displayed as if in a museum. And my favorite aspect, the restaurant, offers the classiest interpretation of indigenous Turkish food. Not tourist or hotel or fusion food, but traditional recipes prepared with the best ingredients and served in elegant yet understated fashion. Armaggan seems proud to offer grandma's recipe. Armaggan and ICA are local treasures that buck the tourist oriented trend. Traveling around the country I was disappointed to hear: "We do not have Zeytinyagli Enginar on the menu. That's what we eat at home!" But at Armaggan is it served proudly and elegantly.

One of the best department stores that you can find in Istanbul, especially if you're looking good…read morequality stuff such as Turkish kaftans, souvenirs, fabrics, rugs and so on. It also has a very good restaurant with Turkish Ottoman cuisine on the terrace. Of course, like all the quality things, the prices are high but it's worth it.