I was not prepared for how incredibly cool this place is! We visited on Halloween night to hear the stories of the mixing between Maya and Spanish culture, and how that played out in the creation of this cemetery. Apparently, people had to be coaxed to bury their dead in the outskirts of town, instead of in their homes. The guide pointed out that the colorful graves were an indication of the Maya influence -- European graves were never so colorful.
It isn't the most well maintained place. The graves feel like they are practically on top of each other. They are incredibly crammed into every inch of space. Some are broken and you can see into the spaces where people were previously buried. Around Día de Muertos, you'll find graves with fresh flowers and cheerfully lit candles burning.
If you go, make sure you're in shoes that can support you through uneven terrain, and don't forget a flashlight (or a fully charged phone to use as such). There is a cute flower shop outside that will sell flowers for folks to leave on the graves. There's also one of the ubiquitous marquesita carts selling snacks just outside as well.
There are a few dogs who appear to live there and will watch you warily from a distance.
It's absolutely gorgeous and chaotic and well worth a visit, especially at night. During the start of the Zombocalypse, you'd want to be far away! read more