Cape Scott is my favourite place in the world. Really, it is. I have a lot of great memories associated with this gem of a park. And even during a torrential downpour, this place takes my breath away. And not just because of the cold.
I've been here four times over the past 10 years, and most recently this summer. The park has expanded since my first soggy hike to Nel's Bight, and now includes the North Coast Trail. A rugged, raw trail that I can imagine is similar to what the West Coast Trail was like many years ago. This trail is not for the inexperienced. It is rough. And full of wildlife.
The main trail, that heads from the parking lot located 30 min from Holberg, takes you nearly 18 km to Nel's Bight, which is a stunning beach over a km long. Here you can see whales feeding in the kelp beds, and find sand dollars (to look at, not to take) dotting the beach. Carry on from here to the west for even more beautiful beaches (Guise Bay is amazing) and a trip to the lighthouse manned by the wonderful Harvey and Todd (say hello and bring them some beef jerky!). For the adventurous, you can head east and hike to Nissen Bight and carry on the the NCT.
Wildlife reigns dominant in this park. You are the visitors. The bears, cougars and wolves are the residents. Take the necessary precautions and be prepared for an encounter with the furry kind. Shouting "here kitty kitty" while rounding blind corners is a great way to psych yourself up and warn on-coming wildlife of your presence.
For those that are less serious about hiking and don't like hauling 40 lbs of gear into the wilderness, there is San Josef Bay, which is also incredibly stunning. The beach here is actually the nicest, but it is busier, and does not get the spectacular sunsets that Nel's Bight does. But there are the super cool sea stacks, and an incredible beach.
The drive to Cape Scott from Nanaimo is an arduous one. I recommend staying overnight in Port Hardy or Port McNeill so you can get an early start on the trail.
There are shuttles that you can arrange if you plan on doing the one-way NCT, starting at either the San Josef parking lot near Holberg, or Shushartie Bay (by boat taxi).
Note: The parking lot is notorious for break-ins. Please don't leave ANYTHING in your car. Also, food smells are an issue since bears are abundant. They will also attempt to break in to your vehicle if it smells like food. And they are less likely to just smash and grab. They will eff your car up.
Review #300! FTR #40! read more