What's not to love about getting up at 3:30 in the morning, rolling out of your warm comfy bed, heading out in the cold February weather (March if you're lucky and Easter is later in the year) to stand in the dark with thousands of other people to hear ear deafening drums and piccolos for 2 hours straight. Seriously, I LOVE IT!!
This is part of Basel's unique Lent celebrations referred to as Fasnacht (held on the old calendar so 1 week later then most other cities celebrate) and kicks off what Baslers refer to as the 3 most glorious days.
For Morgestraich, the city centre lights are all switched off at exactly 4am. At that same moment the bands strike up. These bands however, are just made up of piccolos and drums. The musicians are wearing bizarre masks (mostly hand made) and colourful, jester-like costumes. They have little lanterns on their heads and tow one large silk-screened lantern behind them. The lantern is designed around a theme - usually sport or political related. There is no set 'parade route'. The bands wander the narrow streets of the old town - there are traffic jams and bands trying to cross over each other. Mix in thousands of spectators - who also cram down the narrow streets adding to the chaos. But despite this, there is a sense of calm, patience and respect. No one pushes, we just all shuffle along to the beat of the drums and the sound of the piccolos playing the same tune over and over and over and over. As daylight creeps in, we head home - or to a bar/restaurant that has opened to serve the obligatory cheese and onion quiche and brown soup.
ps. As I'm writing this, a Guggeband is marching down the road in front of our flat - but that's a story for Basel Fasnacht......... read more