I recently took the Amtrak Downeaster train service from Boston to Portland, ME. This service is separate from regular Amtrak in that it is run by the State of Maine, which leases the equipment from Amtrak and operates the trains itself, so there are a few differences from regular Amtrak.
Good things about Amtrak Downeaster:
- For public transportation between Boston and Portland, ME, you have a choice of Downeaster service or bus service, both of which end up in the same terminal at Portland (the Portland Transportation Connector station or "PTC"). I took Downeaster up and bus back. Downeaster cars were definitely more comfortable, with more space in the seat even when the train is full. You also get a more scenic view from the train, even getting to see the ocean at times.
- The train conductors were nicer on the Downeaster than they are on the regular Amtrak.
- The food offered on the Downeaster is better than on the regular Amtrak (however, see below for issues with the cafe car).
- There is free wi-fi on the Downeaster (however, see below for technical requirements).
OK, now on to the questionable and not so great things about Downeaster:
- Downeaster runs out of North Station in Boston. This means that if you are coming into Boston on Amtrak from any point south, your train pulls into South Station where you can either connect directly to a bus to Portland, ME or else take the T all the way across town to get to North Station for the Downeaster. If you're looking to buy a ticket from, say, Baltimore to Portland, ME, Amtrak will sell you a ticket that includes the bus from South Station to Portland on their website as part of the regular train fare. So, logistically, it's a bit of a hassle to hie yourself over to the Downeaster if you're not starting your travel in Boston.
- Downeaster runs a really limited schedule, only about five times a day, and I have also heard that on days when there's a football game the trains can sell out. I'm sure the State of Maine is happy to run popular trains but it seems like the buses run a lot more often and have seats more reliably.
- The Downeaster apparently operates with a skeleton crew, meaning that no cleaning is being done on the trains for the whole train run to Boston and back. With respect to people's individual trash at their seat, the train asks that people take their trash with them when they leave. OK, fine, that's reasonable. But where things get really hairy is the restroom. I do not know how many trips my train had made since that restroom was serviced, but by the time the train got from Boston to Portland, that place was RANK. The waste can was overflowing and the toilet would barely flush. It was just gross. They really need someone to get in there and clean that restroom more frequently, as the train ride takes long enough that people are going to need to use it.
- The vaunted wi-fi on the Downeaster requires some sort of a special connection (WAN cellular, I believe) in order to operate. It's not like a normal "hot spot" that my laptop can pick up just fine in coffeeshops and hotels. Because I didn't know about this requirement in advance, and it's really not well publicized, my laptop wasn't configured to work - so no free Wi-Fi for me. Seems like they could make this a bit easier for people to use or at least make sure patrons knew in advance that something different would be required than using the Wi-fi at your local Starbucks.
- I would have been more inclined to try some of the Maine-themed food in the cafe if the Downeaster people hadn't also issued a bunch of rules and warnings about not eating your own food in the cafe car and not sitting at tables in the cafe car unless you're going to eat. To the extent the regular Amtrak has cafe cars any more, they're not so fascistic about what you do or don't eat in them and they let you sit there if you need some table space. The Downeaster I rode was not at all crowded so I don't think it would have been a big deal if someone sat at a table without eating, and all the warnings made me so uncomfortable I decided to just skip eating the train food entirely.
A volunteer tourist info guy came passing through the train car handing out free brochures and stickers. He spent a lot of time talking to the senior citizens in front of me and checked on people across the aisle (who appeared uninterested), and then walked by me without a single word. I was actually a tourist on my first trip to Maine and had to call him back to give me a Portland brochure. He gave me the brochure but seemed short with me, didn't offer me any more brochures or a sticker, and just acted like he couldn't be bothered. I found that really weird - maybe he didn't think I looked like I needed help? The guy is a volunteer so I don't want to dump on him too hard, but here I am about to go to Maine and spend my tourist dollars and he basically blew me off. Weird. read more