If you go, go for the Canyon. Go in Fall or take the Snow Train.
Pros: A few good views, the Canyon
Cons: The long trip both ways, not many views till you get there, and the short time once you do
Did this for our 3rd anniversary. Booked about two months in advance. A little pricey, paid about $100 a person in US money (about $250 Canadian) including taxes. Day couldn't have been more perfect. No bugs, weather was beautiful.
Had read a bunch of reviews before we went as to be prepared. Packed our own picnic lunch the night before (picked up Subway on the Canadian side) and ate breakfast at the hotel. Presented an ID with our booking confirmation and picked up our tickets the day before as well with no issues. Staff were courteous and professional.They instructed us where best to park so as to be close to our coach the next morning.
Boarded about 7:45 (boarding starts 7:30). We were assigned to coach 4, number 5701. Coach was modern, with overhead room for our large picnic basket and backpack. Red upholstered seats with leather-like backing, and you can recline them slightly. Comfortable enough for us. (Note: previous reviewer said coaches 14 and 15 are outdated, more like third class). Most people had boarded, but we were able to get seats on the right side of the train. (Left side has more valley views, right side has more lake views). All seats face forward going except the seats that face each other for groups of 4, in which case you will be cramped for leg room.
The train didn't jerk much on the way there, but did a little more on the way back (maybe the engineer was tired?) It makes a familiar creaking sound and there's a weaving motion side to side just enough to be comfortable.
Train and windows were pretty clean. Attendants were professional, helpful with directions. The cameras at the front of the train giving the live feed to the screens are kind of choppy, but gave you a basic idea of what was upcoming so you could get your own camera ready for pictures. They experienced a few electrical issues with their visual tour audio/video but it was interesting when it worked, which it did mostly. They turned it pretty much off on the way back so you could relax. It also alerted you in plenty of time about upcoming views. There are just a few shots we missed that would have been pretty that weren't announced.
I don't think they're interested in fixing these known few issues. It's about money. They're the only train and have the only line, and they're still the most popular way to get there. With virtually no competition, people have no other option than to put up with it.
As for the views, other reviewers aren't just being negative - they are right. Many, though not all, of the lake views are either obscured by the morning mist or blocked by tall trees on both sides of the track. Although I appreciate the fact Canada has healthy forests, maybe the logging industry should be revived a little :) The prettiest views are when you reach the canyon itself (mile 114) or on the long trestle above the dams (mile 92).
Colors were reported to be at 80% according to the fall foliage map. They have been later everywhere in the UP as well as Canada, due to a wet August and hot September. When we went (October 6), I felt that with a few exceptions most of the color was at the beginning of the trip. When you reach the part they announce is now the Canadian Shield region, most of the trees are evergreens or birch. It's more greenery and massive cliffs than anything, with some water of course which you can see if the trees allow.
When it comes to train speed, it only goes about 35-40 mph. They go even slower inside the city, and slow down some for the major views along the way. Reason being that although it's now a passenger train, it's still on a freight line designed for heavy loads but not fast speeds. So you travel the same speed going and coming. It is a 4 hour trip each way, which gets kind of boring on the way there except for the few good views and extremely boring on the way back, when you've pretty much seen everything already. So either sleep on the way back or bring a book.
When we got there they gave us the typical 1 1/2 hours in the canyon. The trails are well-maintained and well-marked. The major points of interest are the Lookout Point, Beaver Falls (north and south - they split into the two), and the Bridal Veil Falls. My husband and I did all three, in that order. (We are in our twenties, in pretty good shape, but did have to hustle to see them all. Had about 15 minutes left at the end). They're gorgeous, with the Lookout Point and it's three hundred something stairs being the toughest. Do all three if you can, but don't feel bad if you can't hike to the Bridal Veil Falls since you pass it on the way in at mile 112 and can get good pictures (if you're sitting on the right side). read more