The Emperor Has No Clothes
Just finished dinner at Actinolite. First, some qualifiers. 1. I have eaten at the best Canada has to offer. 2. I've spent well more then what I spent on todays dinner. 3. I'm not a massive eater. So, with that said...
The issue with this restaurant is not the philosophy, nor competence of the chef. The issue is the staggering mismatch between the artistry of the meal, and the price of their dinner. The owner of the restaurant has come up with a brilliant marketing approach - which I actually do accept as his genuine philosophy - which is 'eating the Canadian landscape'. Canadian ingredients, seasonal, locally sourced, and frequently foraged by the staff. That marketing spin has a shocking number of people hailing it as 'one of the most important dining experiences in Canada' - including the Globe and Mail, which hood winked me into this choice tonight. This is suppose to be Canadian food -- but rather is just Canadian ingredients, cooked in distinctly non-canadian ways. Some of the cooking is genuine artistry -- the chef cooked in Susur after all. But there is simply not enough substance here to command $400 for 2 (with the driver abstaining from wine pairing).
First: The wine pairings were rarely well paired, and frequently, the wine was disappointing,
Second: While the quality of the local/foraged ingredients were spectacular -- the asparagus was outstanding and down right photogenic -- too many dishes in the 7 course tasting menu were overly simple, miniscule and repetitive. Had the meal been $140, it would have been perfectly acceptable. But this is a breakdown of our meal
1. Chef Snacks. Two (beautiful) asparagus. Followed by very high quality crudite: Raw turnip and carot - two pieces of each per person, with a dip. Two amuse bouche bites of Crab (tasty). Some dehydrated cucumber, interesting, but not wow.
2. Smoked fish with foraged greens. The 1oz serving of fish had nice flavour but was crazy dry. The foraged greens were the best mescaline mix I've ever had -- which is to say, not very remarkable. There's only so tasty mixed greens can be. A piece of lovely site made bread with butter.
3. Two white asparagus with sour cream and brown butter. Very very tasty. Charred leaves quite interesting. This is dish two with mixed greens. Hmmm - ok.
4. Enoki mushrooms with toasted hemp seeds in a oily vinaigrette. Also very tasty. Very simple. But very tasty. Perhaps 1/2 oz -- a nice little accent dish.
5. Winter greens in yeast butter. Little more then moderately interesting. More mixed greens -seriousely?... 3 out of 7 courses? You know, there are rules about not repeating flavours, or textures, or colours too much - to say nothing of highly similar flavours. Yes, the edible plants are not the same as the greens in other dishes, but it's still not a massive departure. This dish might have even a bit of brown butter again. 6-7 individual pieces leafy veg.
6. Halibut. Absolutely delish. mint and watercress and kelp oil. Great flavour, beautifully cooked, Still quite simple though. Nothing wrong with simple and tasty - but this is a $400 dinner, and there hasn't been a lot of 'god, I could never make something like this' moments. In fact, I'm not sure there have been any - though granted, I can cook relatively well. Serving size - perhaps 2-3oz.
7. Rubarb gelato with edible plants, goat cheese, dandelion syrup and something crisp. Very interesting -- again, it's not like the man can't cook.
Out of 7 courses, the wine pairings for 4 of them were rubbish. Not only did they not pair well, some of the wines were far from memorable.
This restaurant is the same price as ALO, 2x the price of Bar Isabel, almost 4 times the price of the black hoof -- and all of these are dramatically better choices. When you eat at ALO, you know exactly why you paid the money -- the artistry is impossible to miss. When you eat at bar isabel, you know why it changed cooking in the city. When you eat at the black hoof, you wonder how the can do so much with so little -- with a single old beat up house hold stove and no fridge -- and the meal is completely memorable. After Actinolite, I actually left very hungry -- the first time I have ever experienced that problem. I also left just completely insulted.
I read many good reviews of this restaurant. I can only believe that once the mystique of the marketing spin wears off, people will read enough bad reviews, and wonder how they never had the good sense to say 'the emperor has no clothes'. Clearly, I will not be going back, and cannot recommend strongly enough that people steer clear. There are too many amazing restaurants in Toronto to waste your time and money on this one. read more